A few hundred kilometers inside Croatia we find ourselves in Zadar. Getting in and out of Rijeka was a bit stressful, with a lot of heavy traffic on the coastal roads. It was all white-line riding and looking into the rear-view mirror to see what was coming next. If two trucks met, it was best to find a place to bail rather than have the drivers decide what to do. To their credit, the drivers have been extremely courteous overall, perhaps more than at home. Lots of friendly waves and honks help ease the nerves, too.

After Rijeka was the Island of Krk, which offered a much better campground and our first dip in the Adriatic. The Bora winds come down from the huge coastal mountain range and leave Krk without trees (or vowels).

We changed course and decided to head to the Island of Cres next, which looks more appealing than Rab and Pag Islands, our intended route. Immediately off the ferry on Cres Island we’re met with a 9-10% grade for 6km, topping out at 350m. Then back down to sea level, and back up to 340m before finding a campground down by the water in Osor. When you ride next to a cell phone tower, you know you’re at the highest point around, and I think we rode by all the cell phone towers in Cres.

At the campground we heard conflicting information about the ferries south, but it turned out that the ferry to Zadar only ran on Thursdays. Unless we wanted to stay four days, we’d have to backtrack to Krk and go another route. Back over the two huge climbs the other way made for a day of 4100’ of climbing in 71km. Our mantra during all of this, “at least it’s beautiful.”

Back in Krk, we learned that the ferry to Rab wasn’t running this time of year striking down that plan, too. The ferry system was very frustrating and lacks clear information. As our waiter put it, “Why would I, as someone who lives on the Island of Krk want to go to the Island of Rab?” Evidently the ferries were mainly for the tourists and would start in June.

Rather than more backtracking by bike, we decided to bus our way to Zadar to get back on track and have a rest day after all that climbing.

We feel good, are getting tan, and have been eating well, including some form of squid the last 5 of 6 days for me. As for Cašcaiš, she’s enjoying all the stinky fish delicassies that she seems to like.

Tomorrow, further south, and no ferries to mess with.